The Charminar Narratives.

I came to Hyderabad in 2009. The city was never in my plans when I was thinking of my higher studies, even if I had appeared for the entrance exams. I won't say that I had fallen in love with the city immediately, from the first day or first few years. But gradually even without realising something has bound me to this one. Especially, the Old City. Till 2012 or 2013, I had never been to the Old City during Ramzan, I guess, it's after that first visit, I started to fall in love with Hyderabad. Thanks to the ones who introduced me to this festivity. It has always surprised me that the enormous crowd never suffocated the otherwise claustrophobic me. It's a photographer's paradise during the season. Capturing the Charminar and the colours of the shops and crowd in one frame is always a happy moment, but not necessary that you always find a suitable spot for taking photos amidst the crowd. The market has shops for everything including fruits, food, athar (the Persian Perfume), textiles, jewellery and what not!!!

Built by the fifth ruler of the Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Sultan Muhammad Quli Qutub Shah in 1591, this archaeological monument has become the signature architecture of Hyderabad and a global attraction over the centuries. According to the historians, a deadly plague got spread in the city and the Sultan knelt and prayed for the riddance of the plague promising to build a mosque at the spot where he prayed, as a symbol of thanksgiving. Thus Charminar was built as a celebration of the eradication of the deadly disease. An Indo-Islamic architecture with a twist of Persian elements, Charminar still stands as a pride of the City. Charminar means, 'four towers' once divided the Hyderabad city into four equal divisions around the monument.

Each time you take a photo of Charminar, you see a different story being told. This is a photo journey through the different narratives of Charminar. How I saw Charminar over the years...

The very first photo of Charminar from an Eid eve. A 2013 click. 

From the Ramzan night of 2013.

The rustic walls and "oldness". Taken in 2014 during the eve of Eid.

Charminar along with the moon. Taken on the Eid eve of  2014.

The first time ever I noticed the coexistence of Charminar and the temple right next to one of its walls. From 2014.

This is one of the communally sensitive areas of Hyderabad. Precisely why the coexistence was in highlight after a tension in the area.

The lights and lively market add to its night beauty. From Ramzan 2014.

From the archives of 2016. The left minaret was under renovation, but that didn't hinder the beauty.

2017, when visited during the Eid eve.

This year, I shamelessly walked to a street food vendor and asked him for a chair to climb on to take the photos. He readily agreed and thus born the below photograph.

The life of Charminar 2018.

The next photo is taken from the compound of Mecca Masjid, where we sneaked in, despite the security officer's restrictions right before the Namaz.

Of faith and prayers.

While going to Charminar, the visit to Nimrah Cafe is a mandate. Nimrah is an Iranian Cafe between the Mecca Masjid and Charminar. Built in 1993, the Cafe is famous for its Irani Chai and Osmania biscuits. According to the older generation, there was a time when Irani Chai was the definition for the cafe culture of Hyderabad. Even today, the tea shops of Old City carry the tradition. Irani Chai is believed to have come along with the Persian Immigrants who came for better lives in India in the 20th Century. The method of preparation gives the Irani Chai its unique taste. The City is also famous for Osmania Biscuits. The biscuits were first baked on the demand of the last Nizam of Hyderabad,  Mir Osman Ali Khan. The biscuits are very soft which serves the taste buds with both salt and sweet. Later, the biscuits have become the signature cookies of Hyderabad and the Irani Chai is incomplete without the combination of Osmania Biscuits. Over the time, the Nimrah Cafe has become an inseparable part of Charminar and sipping chai along with the cookies baked in the Nimrah bakery looking at Charminar is an inevitable experience. 

The Irani Chai and Osmania Biscuits from Nimrah Cafe.

Savouring Irani Tea in the backdrop of Charminar.

The Cafe has become a historical and emotional part of Charminar over the years.

Finally, this photo is taken while dissolving into the crowd.

One among them.

Charminar has always been a witness to my almost a decade-long journey in Hyderabad. And the aura of the architecture never fails to amaze. Wishing you all a Happy Eid! :)